There are several web sites that show how to replace the battery cells inside a Quantum Battery, (note: in contrast to what some sites say, there’s no need to break the case or any rivets). Over the past 12 years, I’ve replaced the cells in my Quantum Battery 1 and Quantum Turbo a few times with no problems whatsoever. I have no experience with any other model of Quantum Battery.
Replacing the cells takes about 15 minutes and requires only a Phillips screwdriver. Having the cells replaced by the Canadian distributor takes a week and costs three or four times more. To be fair, the factory technicians check and repair/replace other parts, if required.
For Canadian photographers looking for replacement cells, BBM Battery sells, (you guessed it), all types of batteries.
The Quantum Turbo replacement is a Power-Sonic PS-832. This fits the original Turbo which has a lead-acid battery. In the USA, you might try a battery store like Batteries Plus.
The Quantum Battery 1 contains three lead-acid Cyclon D-cells which are wrapped and soldered together. When I bought these, BBM shrink-wrapped and soldered the three cells together, exactly the same as the original, for just an additional $6.
It’s very important to note that Quantum changed some battery components over the past couple decades. You should check what’s inside a particular Quantum Battery before buying replacement cells.
If it isn’t worth replacing the cells in your Quantum Turbo but you still need a flash battery, consider the Godox ProPac PB960 lithium battery. The ProPac seems to exceed Quantum Turbo specs, uses the same flash cables, has a user-replaceable battery, weighs much less and is about 75% cheaper than a Turbo:
• Godox ProPac: 11.1V, 3800mAh (although the ProPac is sold as being 4500mAh, the internal battery is marked 3800mAh), 540g and about $165.
• Quantum Turbo: 8V, 3200mAh, 900g and about $700 to $800.
Although, I’d be (pleasantly) surprised if a ProPac lithium battery will last as long as the Turbo’s lead-acid battery.
(Edited October 2016 to update some links and remove a dead link.)
How do you get the battery out of the case of a Turbo? It’s stuck in there with double stick tape.
Hi Daryl,
My Turbo has three screws near the top. After removing those, the entire contents of the battery slide out BUT it is a very tight fit at the top. Be gentle so that you don’t break the case.
With my Turbo, I turned it upside down and gently shook it (like a bottle of ketchup) until it started to slide out a tiny bit and then I *gently!* pulled and wiggled the control panel until everything came out. Remember that the control panel is attached to the battery – don’t yank!!
The circuit board in some Turbos attaches to the inside bottom of the case via a snap-in clip (on the outside bottom of the case, you might see a rivet). For me this was no problem, the circuit board easily unsnapped itself. Once this happens and once you get the top control panel to slide out a bit, the rest is fairly easy.
I don’t recall any tape inside my Turbo.
I’ve seen a Quantum technician do repairs and he just wiggled the battery out. There was no special tool involved.
Good luck and take your time.
P.S. It’s been over a year since I last re-celled my Turbo and it’s been working perfectly.
There is double sided tape at the bottom of the battery. At least on my Turbo circa 2000. It adheres to a piece of rubber padding that sits at the very bottom of the unit, stuck to the battery. I assume it is a sort of shock absorber. I had to take a long rigid kitchen knife, inserting it inside the case, the side the battery is on, just to pry the battery away from the side of the case. Not to much pressure but just rough to loosen it up so I could pull the unit out. I removed that double sided tape before hooking up a new battery and sliding it back in. It was tricky to seat the whole thing back in but go slow and you won’t damage any of the circuits. The unit is tough though. I used the turbo a lot over the years. The original battery lasted almost 10 years. Amazing. New battery here in the states, $35 bucks at Batteries Plus. You can get them cheaper from Amazon or Ebay. I needed it that day so….but for 35 bucks, my turbo has never failed once. When I shelled out over 500.00 for it I cringed but damned good products from Quantum. I have 4 Bantams, the Turbo and a “1” ? battery I think.
I received an old Quantum Turbo as part of a package deal I bought off Ebay, I paid what I would of without the unit so considered it an added bonus, I was not really looking for one but thought it would be a nice addition and better than my old Nikon SD-8. The seller told me he had just used it a few days before with no problems, I highly doubt that but a deal nonetheless.
Long story short – I went down to Batteries+, $35 and 5 minutes later I walked out with a working unit! I didn’t have to cut the case like the other tutorial suggested, mine, like yours, slid out after removing the 3 screws. No tape on mine either. Mine also had the small terminal connector riveted to the bottom. I saw on another post that told to cut or drill out the rivet and I’m glad I didn’t.
For others that happen upon this post I’d like to add what the symptoms were on my unit because I originally thought I might need to send it in for service because it seemed like the battery was okay to me (then again what do I know).
When my Turbo was switched on without a cable it showed 3/4 charge, after charging for 6 hours it showed a full charge and of course no high voltage light (because of the absence of cable). After connecting the cord the high voltage light would come on without any charge level lights. After firing the strobe all lights would go out and slowly, one by one the charge level lights would light back up. When I tried to charge it the charging indicator never blinked, just a solid light that dimmed after awhile but remained steady.
After the new battery the unit worked exactly as it’s supposed to. The charging indicator is blinking while charging and the flash recycles in about a second, about the same time the high voltage comes back on, just the way it’s supposed to!
I did not pay attention to the battery connections when removing the old battery. The new battery has the terminals marked RED and BLACK – but the wires on the control unit that connect to the battery are YELLOW and GREEN. Does anyone know which wire to connect to which terminal?
Hi Robert,
I just opened my Turbo. I have yellow and black wires. Where the black wire connects to the circuit board there is a tiny “-“. Where the yellow wire connects to the circuit board, there is a tiny “+”:
So my yellow wire connects to the red battery terminal (also marked “+”), and the black wire connects to the black battery terminal (also marked with a “-“).
Thanks for the Information..
I recently Purchased the Quantum Turbo replacement a Power-Sonic PS-832.
This fits the original Turbo which has a lead-acid battery. Quick Service and Delivery of the Battery from BBM Battery
Regards
hi
wondering if the power-sonic ps-832 can be used in the t2 model battery pack? i believe it is the original turbo.
thanks!
brian
and the battery is not sliding out of the case at all. i think the leather stitching is stopping it. any tips would be great.
thanks again.
brian
Hi Brian,
I don’t know what the T2 battery pack is. But remember that there were several versions of the Turbo and some had a different battery inside.
If the battery doesn’t slide out easily – and it’s supposed to have a snug fit – maybe you can carefully insert a thin plastic card(s) and *gently* pry or loosen the top opening a tiny bit. Do *not* use a screwdriver or any other hard object. Be gentle! with the top panel and the case. Always use your own best judgement.
If the Quantum Turbo Battery Pack was built & assembled by ATG staff, it has foam double sided tape.
Cutting corners for real with no tape inside of the Turbo plus no support & repair on Quantum Qflash T series, then using NiMH batteries were the downfall on Quantum Instruments in New York.
SLA (seal lead acid) battery bouncing inside of the Turbo causing problems to QFlash.
You will need a thin knife like, about 1/2″ wide by 4″ long, to cut down double sided tape.
Like Warren says to remove all Phillip screws first.
Then insert the blade deep down while spreading the opening of Turbo housing.
Always applied blade pressure to the wall of the Turbo housing this way you will not cut into the cables or printed circuit board.
First time I done it with suggestions from ATG was 1.5 hours.
Once I was able to pull out the top & battery out, I jumped for joy & called ATG to thank them.
If you don’t use your Turbo much.
* Always charge it every 4 to 5 months
* SLA does not like to sleep with empty stomach
* Fire your flash every 9 months from 1/128 to 1/1 to wake up the capacitor (flash)
NiMH dies out quickly after three weeks+ of storage.
Unless you are using ATG, which many are using without knowing it (Eneloop).
Li-ion dies if you use it or not.
This is good but only recharge to about 155 to 211.
Current rating are higher than most.
NiCd is good but many photographers do not how to charge this correctly.
You have to take this power all the way down & then charge it up.
Again, if you are using Quantum QFlash T series and need repairs. Quantum won’t repair them at all. Beside they are no longer in NY and staff are no longer with Quantum.
Try contacting Alzo Digital, CT, USA and ask for ATG.